On the Needles: Fairisle
Originally published in Sep 2015, this post had been updated in Dec 2021
This week I am enjoying knitting with one of my favourite yarns, Rowan's Felted Tweed.
Fairisle has great enduring appeal and is currently highly popular with designers and knitters alike. This form of colourwork can seem complex, but is easier than it may appear as traditionally you are only working 2 colours at a time.
I'm currently working on this new design which has a steek (the vertical striped strip) knitted into it which I'll later cut. Can you guess what it's going to be?
What is Fairisle?
Fairisle or stranded knitting is the term used to describe stocking stitch patterns using two or more colours in each row. Yarns are worked together across the row either by stranding or weaving. Since you will be creating a double thickness of fabric it is important not to pull the yarns too tight and maintain elasticity in the work.
Fairisle can be worked flat in rows, but traditionally it was worked in the round. It is quicker and easier to strand when working knit stitches, and working in the round eliminates the purl rows when working stocking stitch. Stitches can be stranded by either the one-handed or two-handed method.
Stranding
This involves carrying the yarn not in use loosely across the back of the work whilst picking up and then dropping the colours to be used. This stops all that horrid tangling. It’s best not to strand over more than three stitches. Yarns can be held in different ways, one yarn at a time, both yarns in the right hand or one in each hand. The yarn not in use is carried across the back of the work, forming strands or floats. To make sure that these are lying parallel to each other (one carried below, the other above)and are not twisted, decide at the outset which yarn is going to be on top and which is going to be underneath.
Weaving
This becomes necessary when you need to carry yarn across more than three stitches at the back of the work. Like weaving it can be done using either the one or two- handed method. It involves working to the point where the second colour needs to be held. This is achieved by laying the yarn over the right hand needle and then, as you work the knit stitch, use the left forefinger to push the yarn back over the working yarn. As you knit the next stitch the loose yarn will become trapped.
Useful tips
join in new colours at the beginning of a row and work both colours to end of the row to prevent your work from ‘rolling’
leave yarn ends long enough to sew in
weave loose ends into the wrong side of the work whenever possible, to avoid lots of sewing in
spread stitches to their correct width to prevent them from puckering
Yarn Dominance
When working with two colours of yarn in stranded knitting there is a subtle difference in how the colours appear, depending on how they’re carried behind the work. The yarn stranded below will appear bold and strong (dominant) and will stand out more than the yarn carried on top.
When standing with both hands it’s easy to remember which is dominant - the dominant yarn will be held in the left hand. An easy way to remember though, is that the yarn Below = the Boss yarn!
It’s more typical to hold the contrasting colour as the dominant yarn, but this is really a matter of personal preference, and depends on the effect you are trying to achieve.
Choosing colour schemes
You can have complex colour schemes with Fairisle, changing colours every few rows to stunning effect, but even a simple pallet of just 2 colours can look beautiful. A key thing is to ensure you use colours with high tonal (light and dark) and/or colour contrast to show off the patterning to best effect, although less contrast can result in some beautifully soft and subtle pieces.
I'm using a lovely soft oatmeal colour (camel) as a background with a warm teal (watery) as a contrast colour. Your choice of colours will greatly affect the 'mood' of your work, but even just switching the same colours around would give a very different effect.
Have you tried knitting Fairisle? If so, how did you get on - did you find it easy enough or tricky? Perhaps you are an experienced Fairisle knitter with some great tips to share? I'd love to hear from you about your Fairisle triumphs or disasters - do drop me a line.
