Birch Gilet
The Birch Gilet is part of my collection in Elements - the knitting book is available in both digital and paper versions, but is also available as a single knitting pattern PDF.
This versatile garment will see you through transitional weather from Autumn to early Spring, as it provides a light yet warming layer. The Birch Gilet is a great piece for weekend walks or worn with smarter wear for work days. Its gently curve-hugging ribbed back and waterfall style fronts flatter most body shapes and it's sure to become a favourite wardrobe workhorse.
Inspired by….
As its title suggests, this project was inspired by Birch trees. In my home county of Neath Port Talbot I'm spoiled for choice for forest walks, and this is where I find inspiration for many of my projects. I wanted to capture the contrast of the pale shimmery bark with dashes of dark green grey, and also the feel of the tall thin vertical lines that the trees give.
What might not be apparent at first glance is that the back differs in colour, stitch and gauge to the fronts. The contrasting dark colour of the back, along with a twisted stitch cable rib express the vertical lines of the trees.
back of gilet
The fronts, on the other hand, are light and smoother, reflecting the pale areas of bark with a cable edging that echoes the textured ribbing of the back.Another feature of the forest parks here is moving water which takes form in the many small waterfalls and streams that swish their way down the mountains. I wanted this to be reflected in the design, and so the fronts were to be softer and fluid with a waterfall style.
Structure & Yarns used
Front Detail
The back is knitted in a deep smokey shade of Rowan Kid Classic and follows the conventions of a flat knitted garment, knitted from the bottom up with a simple, easily memorised cable pattern.
The fronts are knitted with Kid Classic and Kidsilk Haze held together for a soft mottled effect, and have a different tension/gauge to the back. They're knitted horizontally, so the cast on edge is the front opening edge of the garment, and the cast off is at the side seam edge. There is a moss stitch border, and I recommend using the continental or thumb cast on for this project (a video tutorial for this is available here). This ensures a beautiful drape for the waterfall fronts, and for the cable panel to sit along the edge of the ‘collar’ as it cascades down. It’s good to have this in mind when you knit, or it can be quite perturbing when you discover the armhole is worked along the top of the piece rather than the side! Because of these structural details it's essential you check your tension/gauge for both the front and the back patterns and yarns. Failure to do so may mean your pieces won’t fit together as they should. For further detail on how to check your tension hop over to this post.
Once you have that sorted I can assure you it’s a really pleasurable, quick and achievable knit, suitable for moderately experienced knitters who can knit and purl with confidence and feel ready to learn simple cables.
Sizing & Yarn Quanitites
Each size is intended to provide 4-11.5cm (1½-4½in) of positive ease for a relaxed silhouette that will fit comfortably over layers. If you prefer a snugger fit, choose the size with the actual bust measurement that is closer to your own. For example if you have a 40in bust, go for size M. The sample modelled here was size M worn with approximately 11.5cm (4½in) positive ease.
The pattern is graded for 5 dual sizes ranging from bust size 81-127cm (32-50in)
Tension/Guage
25 sts and 26 rows over cable rib pattern using yarn A on 5mm (UK 6/US 8) needles.
16 sts and 21 rows over st st using yarns B and C held together on 6mm (UK4/US 10) needles
Making it your own
Colour substitutions: Colour is such a personal thing so I would always suggest going for what grabs you! However, if you want to preserve the original ‘spirit’ of the design you'll want to ensure you keep the tonal contrast which is strong feature of the design. I'd suggest using a dark shade for the back, a similar shade in the finer (Kidsilk Haze) yarn used in conjunction with a significantly paler tone of the same colour of Kid Classic for the fronts.
I used Kid Classic in Smoke for the back and armhole edgings, and Kid Classic in Pumice held together with Kidsilk Haze in Smoke for the fronts (shown below).
For a softer contrast in blues, Kid Classic in Tattoo and Feather, with Kidsilk Haze in Mist might also be a good choice.
Keeping it fairly neutral too will make for a very versatile garment that you could wear with most colours. Here are a few suggestions:
navy with a pale, icy blue
deep forrest green with a pale eau de nil
earthy brown with a pale ochre or orange
Alternatively you may prefer your Gilet to be in a single colour. In which case use the same colour of Kid Classic for the front and back, and choose a similar shade of Kidsilk Haze.
I strongly recommend visiting your local wool shop/yarn store to buy your yarn as you can touch and see the yarn in daylight, plus support your local retailer. However if that isn’t possible for you, then here are links to a UK based online retailer, LoveCrafts. These are affiliate links meaning I’ll earn a small commission if you purchase through these links:
Yarn Substitutions: For easier results I'd suggest using the original yarns unless you are happy to do plenty of swatching! If you do want to switch yarns, the type of fabric you achieve is key (especially for the fronts) to ensure a soft fabric that will drape nicely for the water fall style. Some haze/halo is good, but not too much texture or there’ll not be enough stitch definition to show off the moss st border and fine cables. For more tips on substituting yarns see this post.
Making Modifications: The shaping for the armhole is quite complex given that the front and back differ in terms of gauge and direction of knitting, so any alterations are really not for the faint hearted! I wouldn't recommend altering the shapings of this garment unless you are really confident, and if so just add some extra rows to the straight bit of the armhole after all decreases are complete. You then have to calculate what this would be in terms of additional stitches (in the different tension/gauge) which you would add to the cast on of the fronts, and ensure those extra stitches fall at the straight bit of the armhole, i.e. when you cast off stitches.
If you need to add length to your Birch Gilet, again you have to consider the front has a different gauge and direction of knitting to the back. So definitely stick to adding any extra length to the straight areas, and consider that length for the back = extra rows, whereas length on the front = extra stitches (in the different tension/gauge!). Don’t forget you’ll need more yarn if you are making it longer.
If it’s any consolation, this is such an easy to wear garment that you likely won’t need to alter it unless you are very tall or petite. And of course if you prefer to keep your bottom covered, this can be taken care of by the layer worn underneath. I have seen my sample tried on by a wide range of women, all shapes and sizes, and it honestly seems to look great on all I’ve seen so far.
Anyway, I hope that's helpful to you and that you will consider adding the Birch Gilet as one of your wardrobe staples. If you have any questions about it then do get in touch. I’d love to see your versions of the Birch Gilet so do share your completed projects by email. And I’d be thrilled of course if you add your Birch to your Ravelry projects.
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This post was originally published in 2018 and has been updated